Tant sarees are the most popular cotton handlooms in West Bengal and Bangladesh. Distinguished by their lightweight, airy texture, and a thick border decorated with colorful designs, Tant sarees are synonymous with the tradition of West Bengal. This light and transparent saree is one of the best choices to wear in the hot and humid climate conditions of the Indian subcontinent.
Background
Although the origin of the weaving technique can be traced back to the 1400s in the Shantipur region of the Nadia district of West Bengal, it was only through the Mughal patronage and influence that the traditional weaving technique really flourished. While Muslin weaving also received the same extensive patronage, these were mostly worn by the royal class. Tant sarees, on the other hand, were draped by the commoners and therefore, can be considered extremely popular during the time.
Trends
In the Mughal era, this weaving method was prevalent in the Murshidabad and Dacca regions, which are called West Bengal and Bangladesh respectively nowadays. The pervading authority of the British government and the decline of the Mughal influence happened almost simultaneously. When the British government sensed the profits to be made from the Indian textile and weaving industry, they tried to cripple it through the Industrial made goods to be imported from Manchester. However, despite their efforts, although the marketability and use of these sarees suffered, the weaving tradition and culture of Tant cotton handloom survived.
After the partition of Bengal in 1947, West Bengal welcomed a plethora of Hindu weavers from Bangladesh. These weavers brought with them traditional weaving techniques from their homeland and added a charm to the already multifaceted weaving technique.
Revival
Over time, Phulia or Fulia, Hooghly, and Burdwan regions of West Bengal became a new home to these migrating weavers. Original weaving techniques were also influenced with the touch of modernity and each region gradually developed their distinct weaving method and style. This led to the revival of the Tant cotton handloom in West Bengal as its popularity began to soar once again. The development of new and improved varieties also led to a growing interest and marketability, especially because it was very important for people to attach themselves to their tradition to cultivate a sense of identity post-independence. One variation of the Tant saree even has zari work done on its pallav and borders. This unique embroidery has traces of Banarasi elements and is therefore called Tant Banarasi.
Nowadays, the tradition of Tant sarees has soared to the extent that even female actors and politicians can be seen trotting them in Public gatherings and on television. Surprisingly, the signature of tradition attached to Tant Sarees allowed them to evolve their market from the worker class to a more comprehensive whole.
