History Of Chikankari

‘Chikankari’ , one of the traditional forms of embroidery, originated from the City of Nawabs Lucknow, situated in north-east India. It was introduced by Mughal emperor Jahagir’s wife Nur Jehan. Lucknow is known for its authenticity in Chikankari. There are many retailers in Lucknow who knit and dye these lovely outfits with their hands. The word ‘Chikankari’ means embroidery and is derived from the Persian word ‘Chikeen’. 

History Of Chikankari In Lucknow

It is said that there was a traveler who was traveling from the village of Lucknow, he was thirsty and was offered water by a poor peasent. It was then that the traveler taught him the art of ‘Chikankari’. Lucknow's rich cultural heritage and the skilled craftsmanship of its artisans played a significant role in the evolution of Chikankari. The technique combines various stitches, including the well-known shadow work, along with other stitches like jali (net), phanda (knot), and murri (sprout). These stitches create beautiful floral motifs, paisley patterns, and intricate designs that are characteristic of Chikankari. 

Chikankari gained prominence as a royal embroidery, adorning the garments of the nobility and aristocracy. The embroidery technique was not limited to clothing alone but also extended to home furnishings, including bedspreads, curtains, and tablecloths. 

Chikankari is usually done on muslin fabric, which is lightweight and sheer. The embroidery is primarily done in white thread on a white fabric base, showcasing the elegance and subtlety of the art form. However, Chikankari has evolved over time, embracing colored threads and fabrics, bringing vibrancy and versatility to the embroidery.

The motifs and designs in Chikankari are inspired by nature. Delicate floral patterns, including flowers, vines, and leaves, are knotty woven into the fabric, creating a mesmerizing effect. Paisley patterns, known for their timeless appeal, are also commonly found in Chikankari, showcasing the artistic vision of the craftsmen.

Chikankari has transcended its traditional roots and found its place in contemporary fashion. Designers have seamlessly blended the charm of Chikankari with modern styles, creating fusion ensembles that appeal to a global audience. Chikankari sarees, kurtas, lehengas, and even Western wear have gained popularity, reflecting the adaptability and versatility of this exquisite embroidery art.

Beyond its aesthetic beauty, Chikankari holds great cultural and economic significance. It serves as a symbol of Indian craftsmanship and the rich heritage of Lucknow. Countless artisans have found work as a result of the art form, which has helped to preserve traditional skills and assist local communities. Chikankari also aligns with sustainable and ethical fashion practices, promoting handmade craftsmanship, the use of natural fibers, and the principles of slow fashion.

Chikankari is a symbol of artistic brilliance and cultural legacy. Its exquisite stitches and elaborate themes continue to captivate people all over the world. As we celebrate the legacy of Chikankari, let us appreciate the talent and dedication of the artisans who have kept this exquisite embroidery art alive for generations, and let us embrace Chikankari as a timeless treasure that reflects the beauty and craftsmanship of Lucknow.