History and Background of Pashmina Wool

Pashmina shawls have long been renowned throughout the world as one of the finest woven shawls and stoles out there. They represent luxury, sophistication, and elegance and their material is known for its softness and warmth. It was thus worn by those belonging to the ranks of nobility and was presented as an heirloom by the bride’s family in marriage. Afterward, it was also valued for its artistic elements and used in a girl’s coming-to-age ceremony.

Although the Kashmir Valley is known for numerous unique art forms ranging from copper making to paper mache making, Pashmina shawl weaving is the most treasured one. The artisans need years of training and specialized skill to be able to weave these shawls, thereby also making them especially admired and honored across the world.

Influence of King Zain-Ul-Abidin

Although epigraphists have traced this culture of weaving pashmina threads to be dated as far back as the 3rd century BCE, it was only during the reign of Zain-Ul-Abidin, the King of Kashmir in the 15th century that the handloom industry in Kashmir flourished to new heights. Even as a young Prince, his inclination towards the local art and handloom was widely known in the Samarkand region where he stayed. 

Turkish handloom weavers that were particularly skillful in their craft were brought by him to further the development of the shawl industry in Kashmir. Later, the Mughal patronage of the wool and art industry also contributed to the development of Pashmina weaving. Despite the long period of time, the weaving process still follows the same old techniques and processes.

Discovery by the Persian Saint

The cashmere wool, from which the Pashmina shawls are made, was discovered by Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani. He was a Persian saint who, upon his visit to the Ladakh region, discovered a rare species of goats that grew a fine and warm fleece to survive the extreme temperatures. 

When the pair of socks he got made from the fleece turned out to be extremely fine, warm, and luxurious, he termed the fleece ‘Pashm’, meaning ‘Soft Gold’ in Persian. King Zain-Ul-Abidin acquired these socks from the Saint and ordered the processing of the fleece to begin in the valley from then onwards. Various processing units were set up in the Ladakh region and transported to Kashmir to be spun and woven.