The Weaving Process
Jamdani weaving is the indigenous weaving technique of the Bengal region which has been characterized by numerous rich features such as the fine texture of the base material, the intricate and exquisite motifs, and vibrant colors. These sarees are admired around the world for the ability, skill, and patience required by the weavers and artisans to produce each finished product.
Although numerous innovations have happened in the weaving technique over the years, most of the time, they still adhere to the same process. The material used most of the time is fine cotton and the additional weft designs are also made through hands. Both the shuttle and a hand needle can be used for this.
Before the Weaving
Before the weaving process begins, the fine cotton goes through a round of starching, which refers to stiffening a piece of fabric with starch water. This is done so that the fabric doesn’t tear up when it goes through the stress when being woven on the loom.
It is then shifted to the bobbins and spools so that later it can be used for the weft and warp threads. The looms used for Jamdani weaving previously were called Frame looms. The next stage of the process is the preparation of the warp and it is done on a warping drum. The invention of the Jacquard loom in the 1800s led to the simplification of the weaving process as it allows the complicated order of warp threads to be determined by punch cards referred to as Jacquard cards.
Weaving
The weaving technique uses a supplementary discontinuous weft to produce the artistic motifs that make the Jamdani weaves distinct at a glance. The standard weft, on the other hand, that forms the base of the fine cloth, uses finer threads that leads to the neat, soft, and sophisticated fabric.
- 1. As required by the design, the threads are provided to the weavers in different hues and amounts.
- 2. Dyes and threads are then prepared. According to the motif that needs to be used, different colors and types of dyes are prepared.
- 3. After setting up the loom, the weaver then uses the yarn for the main weft and warp to act as the background or base of the motif.
- 4. The additional weft threads are then laced into the warp in order to shape the motif.
- 5. As the final product is produced, starch is used again to soften the fabric and make it ready to be worn and sold.
