Phulkari, in literal sense, translates to flower work. Essentially, it refers to the flowered folk embroidery of Punjab. It is a form of indigenous Indian craft that requires careful manipulation of darn stitch to create various graceful and aesthetic formations, patterns, and motifs. A colored silken thread is used to embroider these patterns on the wrong side of the coarse cotton cloth. It is usually done on dupattas and shawls in various artistic and sparse patterns.
The coarse fabrics used in Phulkari embroidery are mostly hand spun Khaddar, Khaddar casement, and Dasuti, each of which are suitable for different styles and varieties of Phulkari. These fabrics are then made into yarn by the women of the household on charkha. Finally, the lallari or the dyer dyes the yarn, and jullaha or the weaver weaves it.
Phulkari and Rural Punjab
Though the name Phulkari only came to be associated with the craft in the 18th century, references to similar techniques of embroidery have been found in ancient folk legends and the literature of Punjab. As the craft is understood today, it has a tradition of more than 600 years and has a distinctive Punjabi flavour.
The craft of Phulkari is inexplicably linked to the culture and tradition of rural Punjab. Therefore, these embroidered works have a unique symbolic significance in various aspects of Punjabi culture. Phulkari and Bagh embroidery, which shares a form similar to that of the former, are woven by a girl child’s grandmother to be worn at their wedding. Their dowry would also include a number of such items.
The significance of these folk dresses, however, isn’t merely limited to weddings. Even for other joyous occasions, public gatherings, or to be worn by their family members, rural Punjabi women have indulged in this craft to simultaneously form a deeper bond with their community while creating appealing embroidered dresses. The process of embroidering Phulkari itself was ceremonial in nature. Traditionally, the courtyard of one of the women would be cleaned and their neighbors would be invited to do embroidery together as they sang folk songs and chatted. Such gestures allowed the distinct culture of rural Punjab to be etched in these embroidered dresses. Therefore, Phulkari is a purely domestic art that is reminiscent of the lifestyle and customs of rural Punjab.
