Chikankari refers to the embroidery technique originating from the city of Nawabs in the northern part of India, Lucknow. It is a traditional and authentic handcrafted embroidery of a community of skilled weavers and artisans. Majorly produced by the local women, the artistic and delightful Chikankari works have long gained international recognition and empowered the local community of weavers.
What does Chikan Mean?
The word ‘Chikan’ has numerous meanings, simply because it refers to a variety of things in different languages. ‘Chakin’ in Persian means weaving intricate patterns on a piece of fabric. Translated literally, the word means embroidery while in East Bengal, it means ‘fine’. According to some popular beliefs, the meaning could also have evolved from the word ‘Chikeen’, which means Rs. 4, and the Chikankari works were sold at a cheap price.
Background and Evolution of Chikankari Embroidery
There is no written documentation concerning the origin of the Chikankari embroidery technique. However, there are numerous beliefs and references. The earliest of these references credits the Greek explorer and ethnographer, Megasthenes, to have mentioned flowered muslins to be related to Indians in his works, dating as far back as the 3rd Century BC.
According to some popular beliefs, Chikankari seemed to have originated from the Shiraz embroidery of Persian Nobles, who frequented the courts of the Mughal Emperors. On the other hand, there are also stories of a traveler who taught Chikankari to a peasant in return for offering him clean water.
The most accepted belief, however, dictates that it was Noor Jahan, the wife of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, who introduced the style of Chikankari embroidery in India. It began in the form of whitework or white-on-white embroidery, which means embroidering with a white needle on white cloth. This colorless or white yarn on which the embroidery was done was known as Tanzeb.
Gradually, as the embroidery technique broadened in scope and horizons, it began to be performed on a variety of materials such as silk, muslin, chiffon, etc. At the same, it wasn’t just limited to the bridal clothes and instead was used on bed sheets, bath linens, pillows, and so on. This change can be attributed to both its popularity and the influence of modernity. This versatility, however, has allowed Chikankari to be deeply embedded in the culture of Lucknow.
